Tuesday, July 03, 2012

Rome-Day 1


Jetlag caught up to all of us, and we woke up at 11am. We wanted coffee. Natalia had shown us how the Italians made their espresso at home. Either the Italians copied our south Indian filter coffee or we copied their espresso method. Everything is the same, down to the utensils used, and slow. So we head out for breakfast, to do the European thing- Chill out, have a cappuccino and watch the birds.

Romans do not like the morning sun. The only humans on the street were tourists like us. I heard one american ask another, “Why is this place deserted? Is it a holiday?” When you party hard all night, you don’t want to wake up before lunch. We found a cafĂ© bar and ordered cappuccino. What we got was tepid coffee. Kala’s face puckered up, obviously disappointed. “What the hell is this?”
A little background here would help.

 A few years ago, we visited Spain with friends and just about had a near-disastrous trip. I wrote about it (see earlier blogs about Seville). The one thing we remember fondly about that trip was the perfect cappuccinos we got everyday; 3-4 every day. Despite the talent-challenged football team Italy has, we figured the cappuccinos would be similar in both countries. Boy where we mistaken. I tried my pidgin italian; Calda, CALDA, CALDA. The waiter nodded and brought me the same damn drink every time. And you see folks sitting around with the same cup of joe for hours on end. I wanted to tell them the milk in that cappuccino is probably curdled after sitting around in the open for so long. We were out walking quickly thereafter to run some errands. 

Natalia had told us about the farmer’s market close to the apartment, and we needed to buy some supplies, and a TIM card for the phone.There was this malayali aunty working in the store. She made the same mistake everyone makes who meet Kala the first time; she asked if Kala was malayali. She smiled and said no. Anju of course smiled and giggled at the lady and she was eager to help. The store carried curry powder and pickles, and ghee! We bought ghee for the kids. Yes we had a fully functional kitchen and we used it too. 

Farmer’s market was nice too. Awesome tomatoes. Juicy, ready to burst open at touch. A Bangladeshi worker there asked if we were from Chennai. When we said yes, he being a big Calcutta Knight riders fan said, “Shah Rukh Khan superstar. Calcutta Knightrider best cricket team. Chennai superkings lost haha.” It was weird to talk cricket with a Bangladeshi in Rome! 

We took it easy after all the shopping and returned home. While the kids slept, I went out for a run, up the hill to Gianocolese park. As it always happens, I got lost very close to the Spanish embassy, and a soldier in a parked Humvee helped me set me on the right track despite the language barrier. Fantastic run through the park, with trees to my left and spectacular views of the city of Rome to my right. Ran 3 miles and picked out a route to bring the Kala and the kids later in the day. 

Couple of hours later, we were on top of the hill, had a gelato We lounged about lazily soaking in the sun and the sights. There was a carousel in the park which got the girls happy. A bored-out-of-her-mind teenager with a Led Zeppelin T-shirt sat at the counter and gave out tokens for the rides. Felt bad for her; probably wanted to be out chilling with her friends than work at her family-run carousel. 

Something funny happened on the way down. We stopped by a local vegetable market on the way back. It was run by a Bangladeshi family. Their 5-year old son took one look at Maya and said “Aeei!” And did a Salman Khan move saying, “Dinchaak Dinchaak Dinchaak”, trying to wriggle his hips! He must have seen it in a movie. Maya gave him the same withering “What the hell are you doing?” look that her mother usually gives her, and walked on to look at the bananas. The boy did not know what to do next and went back to sucking his thumb standing behind his mom! Priceless.


Dinner was at dar Poeta; Trastavere’s best pizzeria. Same pizza experience here too; pre-bite Madness, magic, post-bite madness. Now we were quickly getting used to being KOed by the food, and using red wine to temper the impact. Here is where I say; Not the pizza from last night, but THIS pizza was the best!! At this rate, one could scrounge around the dumpsters in the back alleys of Rome, and come up with better-tasting pizzas than Pizza Hut’s “stuff”. Pizza Hut and Dominos have conned the world; that I am sure of.